Fragrance Family: Floral-floral

created by Jean-Claude Delville for  International Flavours & Fragrances 
(today J.C. Delville is a Master Perfumer of Firmenich Fine Fragrances)

The fragrance is a wonderful blend of sensuality, mellowness, freshness and cheerfulness. Cabotine de Grès is a floral, spicy fragrance on a woody and musky base. 

A floral fragrance, synchronized around a rare flower, the ginger lily, which has been incorporated in a perfume for the first time ever, by the "living flower" technique. The ginger lily, which is also known as the Butterfly lily or Garland Flower, originally comes from the Indian Himalayas, where it grows abundantly in the wild. 

Hedychium Lunar Moth

<Every note of this floral orchestrates itself around the ginger lily. Hyacinth gives it a feeling of nature to which iris adds personality, and tuberose a hint of sweetness. The head notes are designed to make you want to discover the heart of the perfume. They are imaginative and exotic. Mandarin blends with ylang-ylang. Orange blossom announces the sscent of tuberose, while the ginger lily adds a mysterious note. To prolong the life of the fragrance, sandalwood, musk and blackcurrant buds are in perfect agreement. But it is not quite finished. When a perfume wears a name that rhymes in French with rebel, one must add a note full of youth. Cardamom completes the agreement, and Cabotine becomes a symphony. >

Jean - Claude Delville

 

The olfactory Pyramid:

 

The "Living Flower" Technique

The natural ginger lily had never been used in perfumery before, because each flower blooms and dies within a few hours, making it impossible to extract the oil. It was not until IFF's pioneering researcher, Dr. Braja Mookherjee, used his new "living flower" technique to analyse the oil, that the flower yielded its secret. 

Dr. Bookherjee enclosed the flowers in a little airtight bag, and forced the fragrant air through a small filter, designed to absorb the flowers' perfume oil. Even though the yield was microscopic, it was sufficient for Mookherjee to analyse the chemical construction of the "living" perfume. From this "perfume print", he was able to duplicate the fragrance, and produce its oil in commercial quantities. For its debut as a perfume, the ginger lily flowered for the first time in Cabotine de Grès.

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